Cotton Through the Ages: How a Simple Fibre Shaped Textiles
Cotton is everywhere. Native to warmer climates with lots of rain and minimal frost, it thrives in Central and South America, Egypt, India, and other tropical-esque locations. First cultivated between 3400-2300 BC in the Americas, Upland Cotton (Gossypium Hirsutum) is the preferred cotton plant of the modern day, being grown for about 90% of the world’s production. On the other side of the pond, somewhere between 0-70 AD, we have the first evidence of Egypt growing and processing cotton. This particular cotton (Gossypium Barbadense) has an extra-long staple length. It is well known by the names of Egyptian or Pima Cotton – the only difference between the two is where it is grown!
For millennia, the processing of cotton was done by hand. An unprocessed cotton plant (known as a boll) looks very similar to a popcorn kernel. The outer shell of the boll is removed, and the fibres (called lint) are painstakingly separated from the seeds, which are tightly woven into the lint. The first known machine to process the fibre-seed separation was created in India in the 6th century. This handheld cotton gin sped up the processing of cotton, but it was still difficult to cultivate and process.
India was the main distributor of cotton from the 16th to 18th centuries, dominating around 25% of the global textile trade. They also created animal powered cotton gin machines, which are larger and more efficient at processing cotton (ginning). It was British colonization that slowly removed India’s dominance in the cotton industry.
The British created a process of stamping cotton with decorative patterns, known as Calico. These wood block prints (later printed via copper rollers) created small, detailed patches of colour on cotton fabric. (Fun fact: this is where Calico cats get their name from!) It became an overnight sensation, as it was significantly cheaper and more detailed than its handwoven counterparts.
America, known for its controversial relationship with cotton production, was not a major producer until much later in the 19th century. In 1879, an American farmer named Robert Munger modified two aspects of the cotton gin. First, he changed the power source from animals to steam. Secondly, to make the clean cotton easier to handle, he implemented the use of air to transfer the fibre between machines. This made the operating costs plummet, expanding the popularity of the fibre. With the exception of electrifying our modern machines, there have been minimal changes to the Munger system of cotton ginning, and it is what helped America become the modern-day king of cotton exports.
White is not the only natural colour of cotton, although it is the most popular. Cotton also naturally grows in shades of brown, pink, and even green! Cotton has short, fine, dense, and soft fibres, making it a delightful yarn to work with. It is breathable and absorbent.
When looking at cotton yarns, there are a few technicalities to be aware of. The first is if it is labeled Pima or Egyptian cotton. As discussed previously, this cotton has a longer staple length, making it softer. This is why it is marketed as “Luxury” cotton. It is perfect for garments. Mercerized cottons are chemically-treated cottons. This treatment makes it stronger, more durable, and has the added bonus of taking dyes better. Along with vibrant colours, this cotton yarn has a delightful sheen to it.
Knitted cotton garments have a beautiful drape to them. It is suited to knit simple garments. Knitting ‘stacked’ stitches such as cables or bobbles can weigh the fibre down, stretching it. It is the perfect warm-weather fibre, regardless if you’re making bags, tanks or tops!
