As a dermatologist, I’m frequently asked which products actually make a difference in an anti- aging skincare routine. The answer is not a 10-step regimen or shelves full of products. It’s a simple, effective lineup of products that protect, nourish, and rebuild the skin over time. For most of my patients, that translates into three essential categories: sunscreen, vitamin C, and a retinol or retinoid.
Sunscreen: The Foundation of Anti-Aging
Sunscreen is without a doubt the single most important anti-aging product you can use. The vast majority of visible skin aging (wrinkles, sunspots, uneven pigmentation, loss of elasticity) comes from UV exposure. If you only do one thing for your skin every day, make it sunscreen. No product undoes what unprotected sun exposure causes.
Look for: Broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and apply it every morning. For significant time outdoors, reapply every two hours.
Mineral vs Chemical: The choice between mineral (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) and chemical (avobenzone, octinoxate, etc) really comes down to your skin and your preferences. Mineral sunscreens are often best for sensitive skin, sensitive eyes, and extended time outdoors. Chemical sunscreens are more lightweight and often easier to wear daily. I often choose a hybrid sunscreen (mineral and chemical) for the best of both options.
Start today with: EltaMD sunscreens (available in our Arboretum clinic)
Vitamin C: Brighten and Protect
Vitamin C has earned its place in our anti-aging routine as a powerful but gentle antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals generated by environmental exposures. With regular use, it can brighten the skin, balance pigmentation, improve fine lines and wrinkles, and support collagen production.
Look for: The right form of vitamin C before purchasing. Vitamin C is finicky and can easily oxidize when exposed to light and air. Look for opaque or dark bottles with airtight packaging. Review the ingredients and look for stabilized forms like L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Percentage: 15% vitamin C is a great choice for most patients. If you’re new to vitamin C or prone to sensitivity, 10% may be better to start. 20% is the highest I generally consider for routine cosmetic use, but stronger isn’t automatically better; irritation can outweigh benefits.
Start today with: Epionce Intense Defense Serum (available in our Arboretum clinic)
Retinols and Retinoids: Renew and Restore
Retinols and retinoids are some of the most powerful anti-aging products on the market. They are derivatives of vitamin A and speed up cell turnover, boosting collagen production to improve texture, even skin tone, fade wrinkles, and even clear acne over time.
Retinols vs Retinoids: Retinols are gentler but weaker over-the-counter products. Retinoids are stronger, prescription-only products like tretinoin. One exception is Adapalene gel which is the only retinoid available over-the-counter in the US.
Look for: Reputable brands for retinols (Epionce, RoC Skincare) or see your dermatologist for prescription retinoids like tretinoin.
Useful tips: Begin slowly to prevent dryness. Apply only a pea-sized amount to your entire face; more product results in more irritation not faster results. Use these at night, and start two or three nights per week before increasing frequency as your skin adapts. Avoid sensitive areas like the corners of the eyes and mouth. To minimize dryness, use the “sandwich” method: apply moisturizer before and after your retinol or retinoid.
Start today with: Adapalene 0.1% gel (over-the-counter)
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Remember that consistency beats complexity. A morning routine of vitamin C and sunscreen, followed by a nighttime retinol or retinoid and moisturizer, can provide an excellent foundation for healthier-looking skin for years to come.
Kendall Flanigan, MD.
Board-Certified Dermatologist
Forefront Dermatology
7903 Provident Rd, Suite 125
Charlotte, NC 28277
Phone: (704) 727-7355
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