April, the month of diamonds, always inspires me to pause and marvel at the unique radiance of these captivating gemstones. There’s something magical about holding a raw, rough-cut diamond in your hand—little octahedrons shaped by the earth, hinting at the brilliance within.
But the real enchantment begins in the skilled hands of a lapidary artist, who transforms these stones into dazzling, faceted masterpieces. I’ve seen clients’ faces light up when they see a beautifully cut diamond, its facets scattering brilliance.
Until the late 1880s, colored stones dominated jewelry, but with new sources discovered and technological advances—such as the ability to set diamonds in platinum and illuminate them with gaslight—a new era began. Diamonds then became the focal point of fine jewelry through the Edwardian era and into the heart of the Art Deco period in the early 20th century. Improvements in tools for cutting actual diamonds enhanced their quality and brilliance.
Advancements in diamond cutting during the 19th century had not changed much since the 15th century, when the rotary device was invented that would later become the foundation of modern cutting—the lapidary wheel. The 1867 bruting machine enabled the creation of the first round brilliant cut, known as the Old European cut. Suddenly, diamonds sparkled with a fire never seen before, their icy brilliance intensified by the cool sheen of platinum and the new electric shimmer of evening events. I often imagine how it must have felt to walk into a gas-lit ballroom for the first time, with diamonds on every wrist and neck catching the light and outshining even the brightest colored gems.
Today, the classic round brilliant cut—with each of its 58 facets designed to catch and reflect light—is still the cornerstone of our industry, accounting for 70 percent of the market. Its predecessors from the Candlelit era include the 19th-century Old European Cut, the 18th-century Old Mine Cut, and the 17th-century Brilliant Rose/Mogul Cuts. These earlier stones had either a very small or very large table (the flat top of the stone) and a large cullet (the bottom tip of the stone), which let a lot of light escape instead of bouncing back up to increase brilliance. But that look is still requested and very much loved.
Many pieces of jewelry that I have held in my hand have more personality and creativity because the older-style stone is present. The classic round is still the best for the most sparkle. Yet, we’re seeing a delightful shift as more clients fall in love with unique vintage-style cuts or current, fancy shapes. Oval brilliant cuts have been the star of choice these past few years and continue to dominate trends. The elongated ovals and rectangular stones, for example, stretch light into long, elegant flashes across the finger, making even modest stones appear larger. Pear shapes and Marquise cuts send light dancing in all directions, while radiant and elongated cushion cuts seem to glow from within.
Fun fact: The Marquise cut is one of the oldest gemstone shapes, created at the request of King Louis XV of France to resemble the shape of his mistress’s mouth, the Marquise de Pompadour.
I’ve had several clients share with me how their fancy-cut engagement ring draws compliments for its unexpected shape—proof that personal style always finds a way to shine through trends. The history of this incredible stone is long and fascinating, which is why it is still the king—or should I say queen—of all jewelry.
